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backlight on the flash's info display.
The
three other buttons surrounding the info display control the
following:
- Flash
setting (Auto, auto w/redeye reduction, slow sync w/redeye
reduction, slow sync, slow sync 2nd curtain, fill flash)
- Image
quality (RAW, TIFF, SHQ, HQ, SQ) - more on this later
- ISO
(Auto, 100, 200, 400, 800) - can turn on 1600/3200 by turning
on ISO boost in menu
Just
to the right of those buttons is the mode dial (with power switch
beneath it) and exposure compensation button. The exposure compensation
range is impressive: -5EV to +5EV in 1/3EV increments. There
are only four items on the mode wheel -- quite a contrast compared
to the other D-SLRs. They are:
- Program
mode - camera chooses aperture and shutter speed. The program
shift feature lets you select from several sets of apertures/shutter
speeds.
- Aperture
priority mode - you choose aperture, camera chooses appropriate
shutter speed. Aperture range depends on lens being used. On
the 14 - 54 mm, it's F2.8 - F22.
- Shutter
priority mode - you choose shutter speed, camera chooses aperture.
Shutter speed range is 60 - 1/4000 sec. A bulb mode lets you
keep the shutter open for up to 8 minutes.
- Full
manual mode - you choose both the aperture and shutter speed.
Above
the mode dial is the other command dial (used for changing manual
settings), and the white balance button. There are tons of white
balance settings available on the E-1, including:
- Auto
- 3000K
(tungsten)
- 3300K
- 3600K
(tungsten)
- 3900K
- 4000K
(white fluorescent)
- 4300K
- 4500K
(neutral white fluorescent)
- 4800K
- 5300K
(sunlight)
- 6000K
(cloudy)
- 6600K
(daylight fluorescent)
- 7500K
(shade)
- Four
custom presets
You
can fine-tune the each of those white balance settings ±7
via the menu system, where each step is equivalent to 20K. The
custom option lets you shoot a white or gray card to get perfect
white balance in any lighting.
The
final item on the top of the E-1 is the shutter release button,
which has a nice "springy" feel to it.
Here's
the side of the camera. One interesting thing to note about the
lens you see here: the manual focus ring is electronic, not mechanical.
It reminded me of the focus ring on the Sony DSC-F717.
To
the right of the lens is the release button, which is used to
remove the lens. Below that is a switch for focusing: choose
from single, continuous, or manual focus. Single AF mode locks
the focus only when the shutter release button is pressed halfway.
Continuous AF mode continues to focus, even while the shutter
release is halfway pressed. This is what you want to use when
your subject is moving.
Above
the lens release button is the flash sync port, which is kept
under a plastic cover. To the right of that is the port for the
remote shutter release cable.
On
the far right are three I/O ports, kept under a sturdy, sealed
plastic door. They are FireWire (IEEE1394), USB 2.0 (high speed),
and video out.
Below
those ports, under a rubber cover, is the DC-in port. Here's
where you'll plug in the AC adapter.
Jumping
to the very top of the picture, you'll find three buttons:
- Bracket
(±0.3EV, ±0.7EV, ±1.0EV) - 3 or 5 shots
in a row at different EV settings
- Drive
(Single-shot, sequential shooting, self timer [2 or 12 secs],
remote control [1/2])
- Metering
(ESP, center-weighted, spot)
Sequential
mode will let you shoot at 3 frames per second, for up to 12
shots, regardless of the image quality setting (yes, even TIFF
and RAW files). The Canon Digital Rebel takes up to 4 shots at
2.5 fps, while the EOS-10D takes nine at 3 fps. The Nikon D100
takes up to 6 shots (4 in RAW mode) at 3 fps, while the Pentax
*ist D does 5 shots at around 2.5 fps. The bottom line: the E-1
has the most capable burst mode.
One
thing to look out for in sequential mode is that you cannot use
it with noise reduction turned on. It took me a few minutes to
figure out why I couldn't use burst mode after I had been out
taking pictures the night before.
Finally,
a side of the camera without a lot of buttons! The only thing
to see here is the CompactFlash Type II slot. Microdrives are
fully supported, including the new 4GB models (the camera supports
the FAT32 file system).
On
the bottom of the camera, you'll find a metal tripod mount as
well as the battery compartment (the BLM-1 battery is shown as
well).
The
tripod mount is inline with the lens, as you'd expect on an SLR.
Using
the Olympus E-1
Record
Mode
The
E-1 starts up quickly, in well under 2 seconds. This number may
vary depending on what kind of memory card you are using.
Press
the shutter release halfway, and the camera focuses nearly instantly
-- very impressive. In low light, or when the E-1 has to use
its AF-assist lamp, except to wait for about a second for the
camera to lock focus.
Press
the button fully and the picture is taken instantly, with no
lag. Even at slow shutter speeds, there is still no delay.
Things
are just as good in terms of shot-to-shot speed. Like other D-SLRs,
you can shoot as fast as you can compose -- at least until the
buffer memory is full.
To
review or delete the photo you just took, you can press the red
delete button below the LCD.
Now,
let's take a look at the many image size and quality choices
on the E-1: